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Our service

What exactly do we inspect?

Someone in our trade once added up the item evaluated during a good home inspection and it totaled over 400 items. During each home inspection, here are some of the many items inspected by Aberdeen Building Consulting, as applicable. If you're shopping around use this list to compare what we offer with other companies.

ROOF/CHIMNEY EXTERIOR: Assuming safe weather/building conditions, we will inspect the roof while walking on it. Even if unsafe conditions are present, a lot can be learned by examining the roof from a ladder at the eaves. By using a 28-foot extension ladder, any house with the eaves at the top of the 2nd floor can be roof-accessed. (Taller city buildings with flat roofs usually have a trap door in the top floor ceiling providing roof access.) Many other companies do not use or carry ladders and examine the roof from the street with binoculars. Proper installation of roofing materials cannot be verified from the street. Be sure the inspection company you hire will access the roof with a ladder.

The condition and quality of installation of roofing materials and flashing will be evaluated. The exterior of the chimney is also examined for needed maintenance and repairs. A proper examination of the interior of the chimney can only be done after the chimney is thoroughly cleaned. We therefore recommended a Level II chimney interior examination, including a full video inspection, be performed by a chimney sweep certified by the Chimney Sweep Institute of America (csia.org).

EXTERIOR/GROUNDS: The condition of windows, siding, sidewalks, site drainage, gutter/leader system, deck construction, garage, retaining walls, swimming pools, out-buildings, and fences are evaluated for condition and needed maintenance/repairs.

WATER ENTRY: We search the entire building for water stains, damage, and leakage. We can determine how wet or dry water stains are by using a moisture meter. Active water stains may be an indication of water damage behind finished surfaces as well as potential mold growth, which may be a health hazard.

INTERIOR ROOMS: All finished floors, walls, and ceilings are examined for damages and active water stains.

STRUCTURE/FOUNDATION: These areas are examined for deficiency/failure. Houses built before 1950 or houses with amateur improvements are particularly susceptible to structure problems.

HEATING SYSTEM: Fuel-burning heating systems are tested for the presence of carbon monoxide (CO), which is a deadly gas, using a CO analyzer. Draft and stack temperature are also checked. The condition of the heating system including the potential for repair or replacement is evaluated. Thermostats are operated. All rooms are checked for operational heat sources.

AIR CONDITIONING: Wall air conditioners and central A/C are examined and tested for performance. On houses with central A/C, each room is checked for an operational cooling source. Duct work and condensate management are evaluated as well. NOTE: Air conditioning equipment cannot be operated without risk of damage if the outside temperature is lower than 65ºF or if the central air system power has not been turned on for at least 24 hours.

ELECTRICAL: The main circuit panel and sub panel covers are removed so that wiring may be examined for safe practices. Often home owners and/or amateur electricians use unsafe wiring practices out of ignorance, which can put the house at risk for an electrical fire. The service entry is also examined. Accessible electrical outlets are tested with a outlet wiring analyzer. GFCI circuits are tested with a ground-fault simulator. AFCI circuits in new construction are tested with an arc-fault simulator.

PLUMBING: All fixtures are tested for adequate pressure, drainage, and leaks. The presence and temperature of hot water is also checked. All accessible piping is examined for condition and quality of materials as well as the domestic water heating system.

GAS SERVICE: All accessible gas lines are tested for leaks using a combustible gas detector. Older installations generally have pipe joint compound which has dried out, which is the most common cause of gas leaks.

ATTIC: The attic is the space between the roof and the top floor. If the attic is accessible, we go in. The quantity and quality of insulation is evaluated. Signs of past/present water leakage/damage and attic ventilation are also checked. The attic is a good place to evaluate the performance of a roof.

BASEMENT/CRAWL SPACE: The spaces below ground level usually offer a lot of information about a house or building. Some houses have a crawl space, which is like a basement where you can't stand up. Assuming the crawl space is accessible, we go in.

TERMITES: Each inspection includes a NYS termite certificate that you can use for your closing -- you will not need a separate termite inspection.

Cost estimates for major work is included in each report.

Other services

(not included in normal inspection fee)

Asbestos sample testing - This carcinogen is most often found on old steam heating pipes and old 9x9" linoleum tiles. Safe and lawful removal of asbestos can be very expensive. Since this company does not do removal, we have no interest in the outcome of a test and can assure an honest test result from an independent lab.
Water sample testing - It is now law (although rarely enforced) that homes with well water should have a county-approved full water screen performed, which tests for the presence of over 60 organic and non-organic compounds. Homes with municipally provided water should also be tested.
Oil tank testing - Above-ground or basement oil tanks of indeterminate age can be checked for sufficient wall thickness with an ultrasound machine. Since oil tanks corrode from the inside out at the bottom, we take a baseline measurement at the top and compare to measurements taken all along the bottom of the tank.
Radon - Although radon is less prevalent in sandy soil (Long Island is a sand bar, after all), radon testing is generally recommended by real estate professionals. Many home inspectors offer radon testing for an extra charge. We do not offer this test but you can do the same radon test yourself for 1/10 the fee by purchasing one or two radon cannisters from a hardware store or by typing "radon test kit" in as search engine. They are usually $13-$20 each including the lab analysis.

What about Home Warranties that I have seen advertised?

Some real estate offices and home inspection companies sell or include these warranties as part of their service. While these warranties make for a nice selling point, they typically feature per-occurance fees, deductibles and restrictions/limitations. If these warranties sound attractive to you, be sure to read the terms of the agreement first, as they may not be as worthwhile as they appear.

How long does a building inspection take?

A smaller house such as a 3-bedroom ranch or cape, typically takes about 1½-2 hours. A larger house, such as a 5-bedroom colonial with central air, a pool, and a second kitchen will take 2 - 3 hours or more. We confer with clients afterward for a verbal discussion of everything observed. Typically verbal reports can last anywhere from 20 - 30 minutes up to an hour or even longer, depending upon how much information needs to be presented. The inspection can go quicker if conditions are obvious, and slower if conditions are more complicated. Older homes and homes with more equipment take longer. After the inspection, the report is delivered within one business day by email and the hard copy arrives a day or so after that.

Should I attend the home inspection?

Absolutely. Not only will you have the opportunity to see how a building inspection is performed, but also we give an extensive verbal report at the end of the inspection that will help reinforce the information appearing in the written report.

When is the right time in the purchase process to do an inspection??

Customarily, the inspection happens between the time when your offer is accepted and when the sales contract is signed. It is important to have a property inspected prior to signing a contract, as information could be revealed causing you to require further negotiation or possibly affecting your decision to buy the house altogether. Once you sign a contract, your ability to negotiate is greatly reduced or eliminated.

What else should be done to prepare for the inspection?

At the inspection site, it is recommended to limit the amount of family members present, as the home owners may already be stressed out and they may not wish to have several strangers walking all over their house. It is also recommended to avoid bringing small children as they may cause distractions.

And if the building is vacant, make sure all utilities (electricity, gas, heat) are turned on for the inspection.

Aberdeen Building Consulting ---- 877-492-9800